Critical Cycles - Chatham-3 Men's Beach Cruiser Bike Blue and Black, Critical Cycles - 1

Chatham-3 Men's Beach Cruiser Bike

$ 339.99 $ 239.99
Blue and Black
Graphite and Orange
Matte Black
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Let us guess, you want a cruiser with multiple gears but still requires the least amount of maintenance? You can stop looking now. Seriously, stop looking. The Chatham-3 Men’s beach cruiser is the bike for you. With a three-speed internal hub and pedal-operated coaster brake, you’ll be riding the most efficient and least demanding of drivetrains.

This cruiser is equipped with a Sturmey Archer three-speed internal rear hub, which means all of the fragile parts are protected from muck, dirt, grime, and doofuses. Sturmey Archer is a drivetrain company that’s been around for over 100 years. Put simply, they know what they’re doing. This mechanism is notorious for its precision, timeliness, and ease of use.

The handlebar-integrated grip-twist shifter makes switching gears easy and safe, never requiring you to remove your hands from the grips. As easy as we’ve made going forward, we’ve also simplified stopping. All you need to do is gently pedal backwards to enable the coaster brake.

This bike wouldn’t be complete without its hand-built classic beach cruiser frame. It’s made out of steel and sports a thicker top tube for better shock absorption. The Chatham-3 is also decked out in comfort-oriented accessories. The extra wide cruiser saddle supports your butt better while the high handlebars with cushy grips encourage an upright riding position, which takes pressure off your back. The Wanda tires are thicker and provide better grip on the road as well as absorb more vibrations from the ground.

Three was company. Now it’s just fun.

*All of our bikes have a weight limit of 220 lbs.

Frame & Fork
Critical Cycles Men's Steel Cruiser Frame
Sturmey Archer Three-Speed Internal Hub
Coaster (Step-Back) Brake
30mm Alloy Rims
Wanda 26" x 2.25
Front Hub
KT Loose Ball
Rear Hub
Sturmey Archer Internal Three-Speed Rear Hub
One Piece with 165mm Chain Arm
KMC C1 1/2 x 1/8 102L
Hard Plastic with Boron Steel Axle
Critical Cycles Swingback Bars
Coastal Comfort Saddle


What you need: scissors or diagonal cutters, 5 & 6mm metric Allen wrench, Phillips screwdriver, adjustable wrench or 15mm open end wrench



1 – Cut the white shipping straps on the outside of the box. Remove the box staples. Open the box flaps and pull out your new bike.

2 – Rotate the fork so that it is pointing in front of the bike. Stand your bike upright on the fork dropouts and rear tire.

3 – Cut all of the zip ties.

4 – Carefully remove the front wheel by sliding it off of the crank arm.

5 – Check out your accessory box.

6 – Inspect your bike for any visible damage caused from shipping and be sure that you’re not missing any parts.

7 – Be sure to write down/take a picture of the serial number of your bike. In the very unfortunate event that your bike is stolen, this is a vital piece of information to give to the police in order to file an accurate and complete report.

NOTE: For tightening all fasteners, please refer to Appendix D in the back of your owner’s manual for all fastener torque specifications.



1 – Loosen the stem bolt at the top of the stem and remove the plastic shipping cap at the bottom of the stem.

RECOMMENDED: Apply a thin layer of grease to the end of the stem shaft by the wedge.

2 – Insert the handlebar stem into the frame to at least the minimum insertion line on the shaft of the stem.

NOTE: The minimum insertion line must NOT show above the steer tube.

3 – Make sure that the fork is facing forward and the handlebars are lined up with the fork dropouts.

4 – Tighten the stem bolt with an Allen wrench.

NOTE: You’ll be able to adjust the height of the handlebars later by loosening and then retightening this bolt.



Installing the stem with the minimum insertion mark showing outside of the frame could create a dangerous condition allowing the stem to break causing the rider to lose control resulting in serious injuries to the rider.



1 – Insert the seat post into the saddle clamp.

2 – Tighten nuts on both sides of the seat clamp with a 14mm wrench. Alternate tightening each nut a little at a time until both are tight.

NOTE: It is important to assemble the seat post to the saddle prior to putting the seat post into the frame otherwise the seat post by itself will fall into the frame and is difficult to remove once it has fallen inside the frame.

3 – Apply a thin layer of grease to the end of the seat post.

4 – Loosen the Allen bolt of the seat post collar on the frame.

5 – Insert the seat with the seat post into the seat tube of the frame to at least the minimum insertion line on the shaft of the seat post.

NOTE: The minimum insertion line must NOT show above the seat tube.

6 – Tighten the bolt on the seat collar and make sure it’s secure.

NOTE: This is how you’ll adjust the height of the seat in the future.  



1 – Flip the bike over so it’s resting on the saddle and handlebars.

2 – Loosen the axle nuts most of the way on both sides of the wheel by hand.

3 – Slip the wheel into the fork dropouts.

4 – Place the safety washer hooks into the holes on the fork.

5 – Fasten the nuts on each side of the wheel by hand.

6 – Use a 15mm wrench to tighten each axle nut, alternating between them until they are both tightly fastened. Be sure that the wheel is centered within the fork (visually check for equal clearance on either side of the tire).

7 – Flip the bike back over, so it’s standing on its two wheels and its kickstand.



1 – Locate the pedal labeled “R” (you’ll find this identifier on a sticker on the flat part of the pedal as well as on the end of the pedal axle). This is your RIGHT pedal.

RECOMMENDED: Apply a thin layer of grease to both pedal threads.

2 – Thread the RIGHT pedal by hand onto the right side crank arm CLOCKWISE. This is the side of the bike with the chain. Tighten the pedal with a 15mm or adjustable wrench until the pedal is securely fastened to the crank arm.

3 – Repeat these steps on the left side of the bike. This time, though, be sure to thread the LEFT pedal COUNTERCLOCKWISE to tighten.  

NOTE: These should thread in with ease. If it seems hard, stop and realign the pedal.

Be sure to tighten both pedals with an adjustable wrench or 15mm open end wrench to the recommended torque specification, otherwise they will unscrew while riding, causing an unsafe condition for the rider and damaging the threads in the crank.



1 – Attach the plastic brackets to the handlebar and seat post.

2 – Slide the reflectors onto the brackets (white in the front, red in the back).

3 – Attach the wheel reflectors onto the spokes of the wheels (if not already installed by the factory).



NOTE: We highly recommend taking your bike to a local bike shop and having your brakes and gears (if equipped) set-up by a professional mechanic.



1 & 3 Speed Models – These models are equipped with a foot operated rear coaster brake. No adjustment is required. Simply push backwards on the pedals to operate the brake.

7 Speed Models – These models are equipped with front and rear linear-pull brakes.

  1. Be sure that the brake pads are aligned with the curve of the rim and that they contact the rim surface flat and evenly. The brake shoe angle and height can be adjusted by loosening the Allen bolt attaching the brake shoe to the brake arm. Notice that the brake shoe can articulate a certain amount up and down and side to side.
  2. Loosen the brake cable anchor on the brake arm held by an Allen bolt allowing the brake cable to freely glide through its anchor.
  3. Squeeze the brake arms together until the brake shoes contact the rim surface. Pull the cable taut through its anchor and tighten the cable anchor bolt. Make sure the brake cable housing is seated properly at the cable stop ferrules before tightening the anchor bolt.
  4. Squeeze the brake lever hard several times to take the stretch out of the cable and make sure that it does not slip through its anchor. If the cable tension is too tight to allow the brake shoes to retract and clear the rim surface, loosen the anchor bolt and give the cable some slack. If the cable has too much slack and you cannot apply enough stopping force to the rim, repeat procedure “B” and take the slack out of the cable.

Be sure that the brake arms are evenly spaced from the wheel and there is some clearance between the brake pads and the rim surface. If the arms are not evenly spaced from the wheel, you can balance the spacing by tightening or loosening the spring tension using the small screw located at the lower side of each brake arm.


3 Speed Models – The gears on this model come adjusted from the factory. If the gears need adjustment – position the gear shift lever in 3rd gear. Remove the plastic cover from the right side of the rear wheel at the axle. Loosen the locknut at the gear cable adjusting barrel. Tighten or loosen the adjusting barrel until you just take the slack out of the cable. Do not over tighten the cable. Tighten the locknut against the adjusting barrel and re-attach the plastic cover. Momentarily stop or lighten your pedaling when shifting.

NOTE: Momentarily stop or lighten your pedaling when shifting.

7 Speed Models – The gears on this model come adjusted from the factory. If the gears need adjustment, please have this done by a professional bike shop.

NOTE: You must be pedaling while shifting for the gears to shift.



  • Locate the tire manufacturer’s recommended inflation pressure found on the tire sidewall (listed as “PSI”).
  • Using a hand or floor pump with a gauge, begin to inflate the tire to half its recommended inflation pressure and check to see that the tire is properly seated on the rim. Be sure to inspect both sides of the tire for proper fit.
  • If the tire is seated unevenly or bulges out along the rim, let some air out of the tire and reposition the tire by hand so that it sits evenly all the way around the rim.
  • Continue to inflate the tire to the manufacturer’s recommended pressure.
  • Do not exceed the recommended pressure as this will cause an unsafe condition potentially causing the tire to unexpectedly explode.
  • Do not use a compressed air device to inflate your tires as the rapid inflation of the tire can cause it to blow off the rim.
  • Tires and tubes are not warranted against damage caused by over-inflation or punctures from road hazards.



We strongly recommend you take your bike to a professional bike shop and have them check your work and fine tune the bike to ensure your bike is safe to ride. 


Shipping on all orders over $65 heading anywhere within the contiguous U.S. is free. Shipping on orders under $65 will cost a flat rate of $7.98. You can also choose to have signature required when your products are delivered for an additional $5.98.

We try really hard to ship all orders within 1 business day, but sometimes we're backed up. Most orders will go out within 3 business. Your order will be delivered within 1-5 business days.

We ship most of our orders out through FedEx. Keep this in mind when you're choosing a shipping method. If you don't request a signature and you're not home when FedEx arrives, it is left up to the driver's discretion to leave the package or not. Sometimes we send smaller orders out through USPS.

Check out more information about our shipping policies here.

Returns Policy

Great news! We offer a 50 day return policy! Returns are accepted for the full product credit if received at our warehouse within 50 days of the date of purchase in the original packaging that is still in retail condition.

Please bear in mind that our refunds do not include reimbursement of shipping fees.

Check out more information regarding our return policy here.

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