Well, hello. So, you gave in and bought a fixie. Good for you. But you didn’t buy just any fixie. You bought a Critical Cycles’s fixie. Even better for you. Here are the instructions you’ll need to finish assembling your mostly pre-assembled new mode of transportation. Welcome to the family.
Check out our PDF assembly instructions!
What we give you: 3 Allen Wrenches (4mm, 5mm, & 6mm), A 10-function multi-tool
What you need: Scissors
Unpack Your Bike
1 – Get your box, grab your scissors, and cut the white shipping straps.
2 – Remove the box staples (these are sharp and can cut you as you access the bike).
Open up the cardboard flaps, affectionately eye your new bike, and lift it out of its box.
3 –Rotate the fork so that it is facing toward the front of the bike. Place the bike on the ground, so it’s standing upright on the fork dropouts and rear tire.
4 – Cut all of the zip ties except for the two on the top tube securing the brake cables to the bike.
5 – Separate the loose front wheel from the bike by carefully slipping it away from the crank arm, which is resting within the spokes.
6 – Remove the accessory box and set it aside.
7 – Examine your new friend for any visible damage that may have occurred during shipping and make sure you have all of its bits and pieces.
8 – Write down and/or take a picture of the serial number of your bike and register it with us. In the very unfortunate event that your bike is stolen, this is a vital piece of information to give to the police in order to file an accurate and complete report.
*Special Note: For tightening all fasteners, please refer to Appendix D in the back of your owner’s manual for all fastener torque specifications.
1 – Remove the plastic seat tube plug from the seat post.
2 – Use the included Allen wrench to loosen the seat clamp.
3 – Apply some grease to either the seat post or inside the seat tube.
4 - Insert the seat with the seat post into the seat tube of the frame to at least the minimum insertion line on the shaft of the seat post. The minimum insertion line must NOT show above the seat tube.
5 - Using the Allen wrench again, tighten the seat clamp once it is at the correct height.
Note: This is how you will adjust the height of the seat as needed in the future.
1 – Remove the four face plate bolts from the front of the handlebar stem.
2 – Remove the face plate and place the handlebars in the stem, making sure the handlebars are centered.
3 – Replace the face plate and insert each of the four bolts, tightening each a little bit at a time to ensure even pressure on all four corners using a cross pattern.
Note: You’ll be able to adjust the angle of the handlebars by loosening the bolts and re-adjusting the bar.
1 – Flip the bike over so it’s resting on the saddle and handlebars.
2 – Remove the small black plastic protector from the fork dropouts.
3 – Loosen the axle nuts on the front unattached wheel.
4 – Place the front wheel on the fork dropouts and insert the safety washers into the small holes on either side of the wheel on the outside of the fork.
5 – Begin tightening the bolts on each side of the wheel by hand.
6 – Inspect the wheel to make sure it is centered in the frame. To do this, stand the bike up on its wheels and check to see that the axle is fully in the drop out. Then tighten each axle nut with the wrench, alternating between sides, until each axle nut is properly tightened.
7 – Now, turn your attention to the back wheel and make sure it is also centered within the frame. Adjust as needed.
8 – Be sure to tighten the cog and the lockring on the fixed side of the wheel. You will need a chain whip and lockring tool to do so. We HIGHLY recommend visiting a bike shop in order to have professional bike mechanic do this for you.
1 – Locate the pedal labeled “R” on the spindle. This is your RIGHT pedal.
2 – Apply some grease to the threads of the crank and then insert your right pedal into the right side crank arm (the side with the chain) and thread it clockwise by hand. You should be able to thread this with ease. If it seems difficult, stop and realign the pedal.
3 – Tighten the pedal with the provided wrench until the pedal is securely attached to the crank arm.
4 – Locate the pedal labeled “L” (this is your LEFT pedal), apply some grease to the left crank, and insert your left pedal into the left side crank arm.
5 – Thread it counterclockwise by hand and then tighten it with the provided wrench until it is also securely attached to the crank arm.
6 – Locate the toe strap on each pedal. Pinch the metal clasp and feed the toe strap in as shown, looping around the spring and through the slot. Note: This is how you can adjust the size of the toe straps in the future.
1 – We HIGHLY recommend taking your bike to a local bike shop to have your brakes set up by a professional mechanic.
2 – If you choose to install the brake cable clamps yourself, locate the two metal circular brackets and slip them onto the top tube of the bicycle to secure the brake cable.
3 – Make certain the cable is on the top of the frame and the screw is on the bottom (incorrect installation could result in injury).
4 – Insert the small silver screw into the hole of the bracket, place the small nut onto the screw, and tighten.
5 – Repeat this step with the second bracket.
6 – Snip the remaining zip ties carefully (do not cut the brake lines).
1 – Attach the plastic brackets to the handlebar and seat post.
2 – Slide the reflectors onto the brackets (white in the front, red in the back).
3 – Attach the wheel reflectors onto the spokes of the wheels.
Flip-Flop Hub - switch between fixed cog and freewheel cog
1 – Loosen the nut on the rear wheel chain tensioner until it is loose enough to swing out of the way of the frame dropout.
2 – Loosen the axle nuts.
3 – Push the wheel towards the front of the bike to loosen the chain and slip the chain off of the cog.
4 – Remove the rear wheel, remove the axle nuts and washers, switch the chain tensioner to the opposite side of the axle, and replace the axle washers and nuts.
5 – Flip the wheel around and place it back into the frame.
6 – Replace the chain on the cogs.
7 – Pull the tire back slightly so the chain is taut and tighten the nut on the end of the chain tensioner to adjust chain tension. Do not over tighten the chain. There should be approximately ¼” of chain slack up and down when properly adjusted.
8 - While holding the wheel centered in the frame, tighten the axle nuts a little at a time alternating between each one until the axle nuts a tight holding the rear wheel securely in the frame.
1 – Locate the tire manufacturer’s recommended inflation pressure found on the tire sidewall (listed as “PSI”).
2 – Using a hand or floor pump with a gauge, begin to inflate the tire to half its recommended inflation pressure and check to see that the tire is properly seated on the rim. Be sure to inspect both sides of the tire for proper fit.
3 – If the tire is seated unevenly or bulges out along the rim, let some air out of the tire and reposition the tire by hand so that it sits evenly on the rim.
4 – Continue to inflate the tire to the manufacturer’s recommended pressure.
*Do not exceed the recommended pressure as this will cause an unsafe condition, potentially causing the tire to unexpectedly explode.
*Do not use a compressed air device to inflate your tires as the rapid inflation of the tire can cause it to blow off the rim.
*Tires and tubes are not warrantied against damage caused by over-inflation or punctures from road hazards.
BEFORE YOUR FIRST RIDE
We strongly recommend you take your bike to a professional bike shop and have them check your work and fine tune the bike to ensure your bike is safe to ride.